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Over the past two decades, the popularity of Japanese food in the West has increased immeasurably—a major contribution to the evolution of Western eating habits. But Japanese cuisine itself has changed significantly since pre-modern times, and the food we eat at trendy Japanese restaurants, from tempura to sashimi, is vastly different from earlier Japanese fare. Modern Japanese Cuisine examines the origins of Japanese food from the late nineteenth century to unabashedly adulterated American favorites like today’s California roll.
Katarzyna J. Cwiertka demonstrates that key shifts in the Japanese diet were, in many cases, a consequence of modern imperialism. Exploring reforms in military catering and home cooking, wartime food management and the rise of urban gastronomy, Cwiertka shows how Japan’s numerous regional cuisines were eventually replaced by a set of foods and practices with which the majority of Japanese today ardently identify.
The result of over a decade of research, Modern Japanese Cuisine is a fascinating look at the historical roots of some of the world’s best cooking and will provide appetizing reading for scholars of Japanese culture and foodies alike.
- Sales Rank: #614345 in Books
- Published on: 2015-02-15
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 8.50" h x .60" w x 5.50" l, .0 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 240 pages
Review
"A welcome addition. . . . This book will find an audience beyond scholars interested in Japanese food. It contains a great deal of historical information about intra-Asian cultural influences. It will thus be of interest to scholars in Asian studies, cultural studies, and popular history. . . . Cwiertka's book is a worthwhile and important addition to the growing corpus of material about Japanese cuisine and its influence worldwide." (Michael Ashkenazi Pacific Affairs 2007-09-01)
"Cwiertka here gives us a history that not only illustrates Japanese cuisine but also exposes the sociopolitical supports upon which it rests. Though properly scholarly, her account is also juicy in details that reveal the "traditional" diet to be something of a modern invention, and diet itself to be the work of sociology, economy, politics and other blind forces." (Japan Times 2007-03-11)
"A gold mine of fascinating data. . . . Well-worth reading." (Tom Baker Yomiuri Shimbun 2007-02-25)
"These are stories that will fascinate foodies and historians alike." (Matthew Craggs Sacramento News and Review 2007-04-19)
"This is a work to read and reread, as the detail is so rich. . . . It is a strong addition to the growing field of culinary studies and a fine demonstration of novel approaches in area studies as well." (Merry I. White Journal of Japanese Studies)
"For scholars of Japan, serious lovers of Japanese food, and for anyone interested in the formation of modern cuisines, Cwiertka's account is both highly readable and essential." (Eric C. Rath Gastronomica)
About the Author
Katarzyna J. Cwiertka is researcher in the Centre for Japanese and Korean Studies at Leiden University. She is coauthor of Yamazato: The Kaiseki Cuisine, Hotel Okura Amsterdam and coeditor of Asian Food: The Global and the Local.
Most helpful customer reviews
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
A revealing look at Japanese cooking and culture
By Ronald M. Carrier
Katarzyna Cwiertka, lecturer in Japanese studies at Leiden University, presents in this book a history of the development of modern Japanese cuisine (i.e. from the Meiji revolution to the present day). She focuses on the social and political factors that affected the eating habits of the Japanese people, arguing that what is regarded as traditional Japanese cuisine is to a great extent a product of late-nineteenth and early-twentieth century imperial policies. She also argues that a great deal of what is regarded as properly Japanese cuisine is in fact of Western (European and American), Chinese, and Korean origin. Of especial interest is her documentation of the extensive role that military catering played in the creation of a homogeneous national cuisine. A postscript looks at the developments Japanese cuisine has undergone outside Japan. The book is clearly written and accessible to non-academics, with a bibliography that provides English-language sources whenever possible. This is an excellent book that should be of interest to anyone interested in Japanese cooking or Japanese culture.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Enlightening and accessible scholarly work.
By monkeyrotica
Heavily annotated analysis of the evolution of Japanese cuisine from the Meiji restoration to the present. Broad selection of vintage photographs illustrate how contemporary Japan food styles are the result of the culture's ability to readily embrace foreign influences--from English curry to "hambaaagu" to fast food to sochu and kimchi. Lots of interesting factoids along the way keep this from being a dry, analytical tome, particularly the final chapters on the globalization of Japanese cuisine and its influence on Western cooking and diet trends. Highly recommended for anyone interested in where all that other stuff on the sushi menu came from.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
What is and is not Japanese?
By Michael Valdivielso
Japan has tried to define itself throughout its history, within its culture and within its country. Everything is given a tradition, a history, glued into the structure of society and rooted in the past. But in fact many things we think of as Japanese are from China or Europe or even America. And while many items, like rice and soy, has been linked to the very idea of Japanese food they have, in fact, only been available to most of the populace for a very short period in modern history. The book traces Japanese cuisine, exploring its roots, how it developed and changed and inserted itself into what we think of as Japan, and how it has returned to the rest of the world, delivered to us as special, as Japanese, and how we have embraced it.
Lots of information - knowing general Japanese history is a great help - but worth reading no matter what your interests. Good for lovers of Japan, Japanese food, or world cuisine.
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